Belgian Battle Royale

It seems I consume beer faster than I can write about it. Karen splurged on a massive bottle of Gulden Draak by Van Steenberge out of Flanders. For somebody who abhors beer she does seem to pick great selections on a regular basis. Van Steenberge cranks out a number of fine beers, notably Piraat, Augustijn and Celis White. Gulden Draak has been around and regularly captures high honors in a number of tasting competitions.

Gulden Draak is a dark tripel ale which is distinctive as most Belgian ales tend to be golden in color. Draak smells, looks and feels more like a Barley Wine…and with an ABV of nearly 11%, it’s got that kind of punch. It carries a boozy aroma but the flavor is remarkably complex. It’s brings to mind tart fruits and coffee. While there’s a substantial mouth feel to this beer, it has a surprisingly dry finish and a slightly sour aftertaste. Pleasantly sour.

I hadn’t intended to drink the entire 1.5 liter bottle and I am happy to say that I did reserve about 16 ounces in a smaller container for the next day but I was surprised at how drinkable it was. That’s probably not a good thing considering this beer’s got to pack a staggering number of calories which is why it’s best to consume this beer with lighter fare such as fruit and strong cheeses that will enhance the subtle flavors.

Gulden Draak might not be the kind of beer to drink on the beach with friends this summer but it will keep for a long time in a cellar as all strong Belgian ales do. Buy it now and substitute it for a bottle of Cabernet on some cool evening. It’s a beer brewed to be served at cellar temperatures and sipped with friends.


Speaking of great Belgian Beers I recently read a review on a Trappist tripel ale from Westmalle Abbey. Westmalle Tripel received a perfect score from Draft magazine logging a 100 in the recent ratings guide. I’d heard of Westmalle before but a lot of places don’t carry it because it’s pricey. I’ve balked at getting it for this very reason but last night I went ahead and invested $5.00 in a pint at Whole Foods.

Sometimes I see beers that are interesting but they come at a steeper price than I want to pay. I start to think about the other beers I can buy for the same money. Do I spend $15 on six Oaked Arrogant Bastards or get a 12 pack of Great Lakes? Of course if you keep applying that logic to the argument you’ll end up with a case of Pabst Blue Ribbon. You’ve got to draw the line.

So I look at the price per beer and consider what I would pay for a pint in a bar. $5.00 for a pint of Trappist ale seems steep but when you consider that some bars will charge that much for a pint of Bud Lite, it’s worthwhile. By the way, if you know of a bar like that, stop going to it.

Wetmalle turns out to be a damn good beer. It’s a very nicely balanced tripel with all those delightful bubbles a bottle conditioned beer is supposed to have. I don’t do ratings but as great as this beer is I don’t know that it’s worthy of a perfect score. I found the beer to be a little on the acidic side. It’s a dry beer that doesn’t trick you with overpowering flavors but I think I’d take Ommegang’s Hennepin over Westmalle Tripel.

That’s not to say that Westmalle isn’t a fantastic beer. I believe my review is more than a little tainted by Draft’s take on this product. If you have a chance to try Westmalle you should take it because you might think I’m completely insane.

And that’s the thing about taste. Everybody is different. I harbor a serious hop bias which is why I don’t care much for current British Ales. That bias drifts into my appreciation for wheat beers and Belgian ales as well. I appreciate the history of British beer, but the current offerings on the market have a malty sweetness that tastes like molasses that I feel needs to be offset with stronger hops, but some people like that syrupy sweetness and that’s fine.

I guess what I’m trying to say is that Westmalle Tripel is an outstanding beer that everybody should try. Had I not read the flattering review I doubt that I’d be inclined to offer a counterpoint but a lot of people will read that score and think that the Belgian ale story begins and ends with Westmalle. Nothing could be further from the truth. I would be thrilled to receive Westmalle Tripel as a gift and I will happily advise friends and family to order it if they never had it before but that doesn’t mean this is the best beer on the market. Among the best? Sure. It’s just that there are too many great Belgian Ales to make any superlative claims about Westmalle. Gulden Draak is a tripel as well and it provides a completely different experience. For some people that will mean better but they have to try it.

There you have it: a battle of the Belgians...Two true Belgian tripels waiting to be contrasted and compared. I didn’t mean for it to turn out this way but these two beers really illustrate the range and complexity of the art of brewing. If you can get your hands on both you’re in for a real treat. You can tell your friends that you’re doing research and maybe even write off the bar tab as a business expense.

By the way...I'm not an accountant.